Chocolate-amaretto gelato

Despite the crazy, we-thought-it-would-never-end, winter we just lived through, I'm amazed to realize I pulled out the ice cream maker and made my fair share of ice cream during those months.  I guess we needed comfort food of all kinds to get through all that snow (plus, there was plenty of time on our hands at home, indoors)!  Now that it's warming up and ice cream season is really kicking into high gear, I took it upon myself to make this flavor I've been hankering for...

I made chocolate-amaretto gelato.  I use the term "gelato" loosely since, unlike actual gelaterias which churn their gelato slowly to incorporate less air, our homemade version is churned in a standard home ice cream maker.  I adapted the recipe from the Ciao Bella Book of Gelato and it does contain a higher milk to cream ratio, something I like about gelato because not only is it a bit lighter, it seems to let the base flavor shine more.

You might know my profile by now: crazy chocolate fanatic and lover of almond-flavored things.  So chocolate and amaretto is a combination I love.  This gelato makes me think of an affogato.   Ever since I started making it last summer (it was a revelation!), it's become a go-to dessert for my husband and I.  And after trying a few combinations (different ice creams flavors and liqueurs), the version with homemade chocolate gelato and amaretto is my very favorite. This gelato is a close mimic of that if you want to skip the hot espresso.  But I can tell you we did used it for affogato and it is terrific drowned in hot espresso and an extra splash of amaretto as well!

I've had a bag of amaretti cookies in the pantry waiting for this gelato to happen.  I thought it would be great to go alongside, to echo the almond flavor and add some always-welcomed crunch.  I went with store-bought though I've attempted a homemade version once before.  I thought I'd go for not only ease but the authentic depth of flavor and intense crunch you get from the "real" kind.  Did you know that amaretti cookies are made with apricot kernels?!  I don't know much about apricot kernels but they sure do help make some intense amaretti cookies.  (Incidentally, David Lebovitz has a recipe for apricot kernel ice cream in his new book.  You hack away at the pit of an apricot and the kernels are hidden inside!) 

I really wanted to post this particular gelato because it's one of those flavor combinations that define what I love.  This gelato or ice cream is smooth and chocolaty and the amaretto liqueur adds an almond flavor, with a zing, that does not go unnoticed.  It's pretty wonderful.  


To make this chocolate-amaretto gelato, I start with a chocolate base.  I adapted the recipe from Ciao Bella a bit by actually scaling down the amount of bittersweet chocolate to 3 ounces, from 4 ounces.  

I surprise myself whenever I use less, rather than more chocolate, for a recipe but I find that with many homemade chocolate ice cream recipes, too much chocolate can make it a bit too rich, too pudding-like for me.  It almost seems to be missing that "ice" part of the ice cream when there's too much.  I prefer it just a bit lighter and I'm glad I went with a bit less because the end result is there's plenty of chocolate flavor here without being too rich.

The rest of this chocolate gelato base is made with 2 cups whole milk, 1 cup heavy cream, 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa, 4 egg yolks, and 3/4 cup sugar.  I also added a teaspoon of instant espresso powder, more to heighten the chocolate flavor than to add a pronounced coffee flavor (though that is not a bad idea at all).  

Chill the cooked chocolate base overnight (or at least 4 hours) and add chilled amaretto liqueur right before churning.  You can use 1/4 to as much as 1/2 cup.  I used a generous 1/4 cup and it was enough for us. You can clearly taste the amaretto in the finished gelato.

Homemade chocolate ice cream tends to be soft but the liqueur in this also contributes added smoothness. My husband particularly loves a smooth, softer textured ice cream so this is right up his alley.  I actually don't mind my ice cream nice and icy but this is equally nice with all that chocolate and almond flavor, together with a little kick.  It's good stuff!

Serve with amaretti cookies, biscotti, tuiles, or just a cup of coffee/espresso and you have an elegant dessert.  Or go casual and plop a scoop over a cone and take it outside and enjoy the sunshine.  I think ice cream is like the ultimate "little black dress" of desserts...you can't go wrong!

I can't help but daydream about other gelato flavors I love...hazelnut, gianduja/chocolate-hazelnut, pistachio, chestnut...(chocolate goes without saying).  I usually favor Ben & Jerry-style ice cream with tons of bold, crunchy mix-ins but when it comes to gelato, there's usually so much flavor - and so many flavor choices - that I'm totally satisfied with its simplicity.


Recipe:

Chocolate-Amaretto Gelato
Adapted from Ciao Bella Book of Gelato 

- Makes approximately 1 quart - 

2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate (I used 60% cacao), finely chopped
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional)
4 large egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup amaretto liqueur
Optional: crushed amaretti cookies, for serving

Place milk and cream into a heavy-bottom saucepan and heat over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until small bubbles begin to form around the edges. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cocoa powder.  Add the chopped chocolate and espresso powder and whisk until chocolate is completely melted and mixture is smooth.

Whisk egg yolks together in a heatproof bowl.  Gradually whisk in sugar until combined.  The mixture should be thick and pale yellow.  Whisking constantly, gradually add a few ladles of the hot milk mixture, a few tablespoons at a time, to temper the yolks.  Scrape the custard into the saucepan and place it over low heat.  Cook, stirring continuously, until custard is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. 

Pour mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean bowl.  Let cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally, then cover and chill overnight or at least 4 hours.  While custard chills, cover and refrigerate amaretto liqueur as well.

Remove custard and amaretto from the refrigerator.  Stir the amaretto into the custard right before churning according to manufacturer's instructions.  Let gelato set in the fridge a few hours before serving.  Serve with crushed amaretti cookies, if desired.