Vanilla bean macarons with ganache filling

One of the benefits of starting this little blog 3 years ago is learning to make many things I'd otherwise buy. I've discovered lots of great recipes and I'm constantly craving something I've made before and itching to get in the kitchen to make it again.

Learning to make macarons has been one of the more memorable challenges.   It's not necessarily hard but a little unpredictable.  The learning process was a drawn-out one of trial and error (with a change in oven thrown in the midst) and to this day, I never know how a batch will turn out.  But, ironically enough, doing this blog has loosened me up a lot in the last few years.  I don't stress about things turning out perfectly (because they don't and you need to do things for the joy of it) though I'm obviously hopeful for a tasty outcome.  And with macarons, every time we spend $2.50-$3.00 buying one of them, I think to myself: I've got to make a batch so I don't get rusty! 

I won't be so silly as to compare my homemade macarons with the ones at the pastry shop but boy, you save so much money making them yourself - and a girl has to be practical sometimes!  Honestly, they taste great even if they don't turn out with perfect feet or in one uniform size.  

At home, I stick with the basics (chocolate, coffee, pistachio, etc.) and this time, I decided to make "plain" vanilla bean macarons with my default filling, chocolate ganache.  I attempted to fill some with strawberry preserves (and really, the almond-vanilla macaron shells are great to fill with just about any flavors you like) but I found it too thin as a macaron filling.  It's curious because I've often seen fruit jams as an option for macaron filling but I'm starting to think you'd need to reduce/thicken it a bit first, or stir it into some white chocolate ganache.  My mind always reverts to chocolate.

Macarons always make me think of Ladurée, the Parisian house where it all started. About 2 years ago, a Ladurée boutique opened in midtown Manhattan and earlier this year, another opened in Soho.  This location in Soho is not only a boutique but also a tea salon/restaurant.  Needless to say, I've been wanting to go and my fellas and I finally had a lovely breakfast there recently.

Living in New Jersey, we try to hop into Manhattan some weekends to do a little exploring and eating.  On this recent weekend morning, I had to be in the city for another appointment and having a quiet, early breakfast at Ladurée sounded like a great option since that rather-rambunctious 9-year old of ours would be in attendance.  We had tea, hot chocolate, croissants, breads, and dessert!  We had a lot to cover on my first sit-down visit.  And my, I had a lovely time - a better time than I expected, actually. Ladurée is a place that is somehow at once both whimsical and sophisticated.  I loved the ambiance and their signature color palette of pastels.  If I could convince someone to sell me those plates and cups, I would be in heaven.  

The visit to Ladurée definitely encouraged me to go home and "whip up" a batch macarons for myself.  


I continue to use the French method of making macarons.  It's hard to shake the boat and try something new when you feel you've finally managed one method (it's how I was "taught" in Paris too!).  That said, I would like to try making macarons using the Italian method (starting with Italian meringue).  I hear it makes for a more stable meringue, more predictable results, and I'm definitely intrigued to compare the difference.  I will get to it one day!  

The recipe I do use right now it one cobbled together from Tartelette with tips I picked up from Alice Medrich in one of her books.  

I did something a little different this time.  I was feeling a little lazy and instead of grinding the almonds myself, I took advantage of my package of Bob's Red Meal almond flour and used that.  I didn't grind anything.  Typically, I grind slivered almonds with confectioners' sugar, pass it through a medium-sieve, and repeat the process 2-3 times.  In this case, I took the fine almond flour and passed it through the sieve with the confectioner's sugar, without a food processor in sight!  I'm not sure if I should be proud of myself or if I should just duck my head and feel lucky (I've seen recipes that ask you to grind even the almond flour).  I just know this shortcut worked well for me here.  And when making macarons for everyday enjoyment at home with my family, I'd do it this way again (not having to lug out and clean my food processor saves a lot of time)!

I'm so glad I've come to love and appreciate "plain" vanilla so much.  It's a beautiful flavor that's hard to put your finger on, and works so well with so many other flavors in pastry.

Speaking of pastry, I'll leave you with these little masterpieces from Ladurée's display case that morning we visited.  They really are small works on art.  They're a joy to look at and you almost can't bear to eat it.

Some pastries from Laduree Soho

Recipe:

Vanilla Bean Macarons with Ganache

Recipe for macaron shells adapted from Tartelette (incorporating techniques I learned in other places that has what worked for me); Ganache recipe adapted from David Lebovitz

Macaron Shells:

- Makes approximately 22 filled cookies, depending on their size -

110 grams almond flour (I use Bob's Red Mill)*
200 grams confectioners'/powdered sugar
90 grams egg whites, or from about 3 eggs (aged 1-2 days**)
30 grams granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean

* Typically, I start with blanched, slivered almonds which I grind in a food processor with the confectioner's sugar.  I then pass the mixture through a sieve, take the lumps at the bottom of the sieve to process again in the food processor, and repeating this 2-3 times.  For a shortcut, I used the almond flour, which was fine enough to be used without grinding further.  You can do either.   

**Aging the egg whites: Separate the egg whites and place in a bowl, covered, at room temperature for 24 hours. For longer than 24 hours (up to 5 days), store whites in the fridge and bring to room temperature before starting. The purpose of this is to eliminate moisture from the egg whites so that the batter will be thicker and you have an edge in your macaron making.

Pass the fine almond flour and confectioners' sugar through a medium-coarse sieve. Press any remaining lumps of almonds through as much as possible and you should be left with a small amount at the bottom that I discard.  (If there is more than a tablespoon or so of almonds remaining, you'll need to grind it using a small food processor.)  Whisk to combine.

In the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites to a foam.   Then gradually add the granulated sugar until you get a stiff, glossy meringue.   Right before the egg whites reach that stage, split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds using a sharp paring knife.  Add vanilla bean seeds to the meringue to combine.  Do not overbeat the meringue or it will be too dry and the macarons won't work.

Add the dry mixture all at once to the meringue.   Give it a quick fold to break up some air and then carefully fold the mixture together. You want the whites to be incorporated and the mixture to be thick and lava like.   Test the batter by placing a dollop on a plate. If it holds its shape but the top flattens on its own, it is ready.   Otherwise, give the batter a couple more folds. The process should take less than 50 strokes; it is better to fold once and check rather than over do it.

Fill the batter into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip that has about a 1/2 inch opening (I use Ateco #807).   Pipe 1 1/2 inch rounds onto parchment or silpat lined baking sheets at least an inch apart.  Rap the sheets 2-3 times firmly on the counter.   Let the macarons sit for about 20-30 minutes until the surface of the shells are slightly dry.

While the macaron shells are sitting, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place baking sheets into the upper and lower thirds of the oven and immediately turn the oven temperature down to 300 degrees.   Bake for 15-20 minutes (depending on size).   Let cool completely before removing and placing on cooling racks.

When fully cooled, spread ganache onto one macaron shell and sandwich with another. Many people say macarons taste better with a little rest in the refrigerator.   Store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator for several days and bring them up to room temperature before eating.

Chocolate Ganache Filling

- Makes more than enough to amply fill the macaron shells in the recipe above -

4 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1/4 teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional)
1/2 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons light corn syrup

1 tablespoon butter, cut into small pieces

Place chopped chocolate and espresso powder into a heatproof bowl.  Heat the cream and corn syrup in a small saucepan.  Remove the cream from the heat once it begins to boil.  Pour the hot cream over the chopped chocolate and let sit for one minute.

Beginning at the center, slowly whisk the chocolate and cream together until combined.  Stir in the butter until smooth.  Let the mixture sit at room temperature, whisking occasionally, until the ganache is fully cooled and just thick enough to spread.  (You can place the ganache in the refrigerator, if necessary, to speed up the process but make sure to check on it frequently since it will harden.)