Tender pancakes with a secret ingredient

As I mentioned, I've got breakfast on the brain now that summer break is here and we have more time on our hands.  One of my 8-year old's favorite breakfast requests is pancakes. Needless to say, I see myself flipping many batches throughout the summer.

Generally, if I have buttermilk, I make these irresistible buttermilk pancakes, which even the little one has grown to love (the tang, though subtle, took a little getting used to for him).  When I only have milk, I make a classic, which involves whipping egg whites and separately folding them in for a fluffy texture.  Those pancakes are terrific but I've been looking for a recipe for light, tender pancakes that don't require that extra step.  Not that it's a huge hassle but - given the option - why not do away with extra dishes and having to remember to separate the eggs when they're cold, whipping the whites when they're room temperature and all that, first thing in the morning.  And that's how we come to today's recipe.

I think I found what I've been looking for!  A recipe for tender plain pancakes without the need for folding in egg whites.  The secret ingredient in these pancakes is...potato starch!

I found the recipe in Gale Gand's Brunch! and it's credited to a woman named Ina Pickney, who apparently specializes in breakfasts.  She calls these pancakes "Heavenly Hots" and I understand why after tasting them.  The explanation behind adding potato starch (which is much like cornstarch) is that it helps soften the texture of the wheat flour, because it holds liquids differently, so that you end up with a finer, more tender pancake.  Supposedly, the use of potato starch is one of the secrets behind Krispy Kreme doughnuts!  

Though I haven't tried it, I've heard of including cornstarch to create a soft, fluffy, tender cookie so maybe this is much the same idea.  Another cookbook I read recently said that the use of cornstarch and cocoa powder was done way back in Victorian times to create a finer cake crumb. I wonder why the habit went out of style but these pancakes have convinced me that there's definitely something to it!  Some people say vinegar or lemon juice also helps make a tender pancake. I've made whole wheat pancakes using lemon juice but those were not as good as these.  I'd love to hear it if you have any insight!

I highly recommend giving these pancakes a try - they're easy to make and turn out light and tender.  I am officially inducting them into my family's pancake rotation.  It's hard to believe that not very long ago, I only made pancakes from a box!


Here's the most important thing you need for these pancakes: potato starch.  I bought a bag just for this pancake experiment and it paid off big time.  Luckily, potato starch is fairly inexpensive and I now have plenty to make many batches of pancakes.  You can also use it as a thickener, much like cornstarch, for soups and gravies.  I'll be experimenting!

The potato starch doesn't totally replace the wheat flour.  It's basically a ratio of 2 parts all-purpose flour to 1 part potato starch.  It does the trick nicely.  There's also a lot of baking powder in the batter to give it lift and I find it's best to use/cook the bubbling batter right away.  Don't let it sit around.

Next time I make these pancakes (and that would be very soon), I plan to try it with melted butter instead of the 2 tablespoons of canola oil that the recipe specifies.  I'm usually happy to use oil over butter but I think a little butter adds great flavor and richness to pancakes.  Particularly if you eat pancakes simply with maple syrup, I think some butter in the pancakes themselves work very nicely. With the canola oil, the pancakes have a mild flavor but that works nicely if you plan to cook the pancakes in butter (I use cooking spray) or serve them with some butter or other flavorful toppings. Texture wise, they are nice and tender.

While the pancake batter expands and puffs up thanks to the baking powder and might look like a lot, the recipe only makes about 8-10 three to four-inch pancakes so consider doubling the recipe in a great big bowl.

Update (July 11, 2013): Just following up to say that I've made these pancakes again and tried the recipe using melted butter instead of canola oil. The butter really added a lot of flavor and richness. You might be sitting there, thinking "duh!" but I had to try it and compare.  After doing so, I'd say that if you are not concerned about your butter consumption, we do prefer these (and other) pancakes with melted butter instead of oil.  I use between 2 to 2 1/2 tablespoons of melted butter in place of the 2 tablespoons of canola oil in the recipe.  You really get a lot of mileage with that in terms of added flavor. These tender, fluffy pancakes will make its way to our breakfast (and dinner) table often!

Recipe:

Tender Pancakes
From Ina Pickney of Chicago via Gale Gand's Brunch!

- Approximately 8-10 three to four-inch pancakes - 

2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup potato starch (this is the "secret" ingredient that makes them so tender!)
1 tablespoon sugar
3/8 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder
1 large egg
1 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons canola oil (I prefer to use about 2 1/2 tablespoons melted butter instead)
Unsalted butter or cooking spray, for cooking

Heat a griddle or large skillet over medium heat.  

Whisk flour, potato starch, sugar, salt, and baking powder together in a medium mixing bowl.  In a separate bowl or measuring cup, combine the milk with the egg and oil (or melted butter) using a whisk or fork.  Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir together with a wooden spoon.  Do not over-mix; you want plenty of lumps.  The batter will bubble up and look foamy as the baking powder becomes activated. Use the batter to cook pancakes immediately.

Grease griddle with a little butter or cooking spray.  Ladle about 3 tablespoons of pancake batter onto the griddle and cook until bubbles form on the surface and the underside is lightly golden brown.  Flip the pancake and cook for another minute or so.  

Serve immediately.  If necessary, place pancakes on a plate in a 200 degree oven to keep warm. These pancakes are great with maple syrup, butter, jam, or Nutella (why not!).